Candy Cab SNK SC19-4 restoration - A work in progress

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Paulie
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Re: Candy Cab SNK SC19-4 restoration - A work in progress

Post by Paulie » Fri Jan 13, 2012 3:35 pm

nokgod wrote:
Paulie wrote:
nokgod wrote:looking good mate. :D What's special about novus then? Is it perspex specific or something. I've never heard of it, tbh.
Well TBH I've never used it before but I've done a fair bit of research on what to use and Novus seems to get the thumbs up (they sell it on ebay thats where I'm gonna buy it from). Yep it's for removing scratches in plastics and fogging on perspex etc I've seen a few before and after pics from other peoples projects and the differnce is really good.
Interesting. I'd like your opinion of it when you use it then, as i'd like to polish up that Gamecube perspex light i bought some time ago. Its got a few minor scratches, nothing major, but they annoy me.
Yep it's good stuff Trev only thing is you need to by a kit of the 3 polishes about £10 for the small bottles but it goes a long way. check out the results for yourself

P1, P2 credit display strip, at this point it has just has a wipe with a damp cloth.
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P1, P2 credit display strip, after being polished up with Novus, the security bolts polished and with the new Seimitsu PS-14DN buttons installed.
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My trade/sale thread (Includes my feedback)

http://www.retrogamer.net/forum/viewtop ... =6&t=23510

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Paulie
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Re: Candy Cab SNK SC19-4 restoration - A work in progress

Post by Paulie » Fri Jan 13, 2012 3:51 pm

Here's where I am at with the resto at the moment.

Thought I would just bang it all in this post as it's prob a bit better to read it through in 1 go even though it's quite long.

Hope you like what I've done so far :D

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I cleaned the inside of the cab, it was pretty filthy but with a bit of elbow grease it came up a treat

Pretty grubby.
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Almost there.
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Clean as a whistle.
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I removed the internal PCB base support bars and the front and back large support bars which are attached with 14 cross head screws. I then removed the coin box shoot which is attached by 2 cross head screws. I then removed the coin box housing which is attached by 2 cross head screws (at the rear). I removed the coin box lock which is attached by 2 nuts, one big, one small. I later removed the small support bar for the power supply base which again was attached by 2 cross head screws (this was done after the rest of the parts simply because I forgot it was even there).

I gave everything a light rub with some very fine wet and dry and applied 3 coats of Rust-oleum Surface Primer (these parts were originally only primed so I will not be giving them a top coat of paint)

Internal support bars and coin box before respraying
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Internal support bars and coin box after priming
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My cab came with a 2 slot, obviously it originally came with a 4 slot (hence the cabinets name SC19-4) the 19 refers to the 19" monitor and the 4 refers to the number of slots in the MVS motherboard) . I got a 4 slot and thought I would clean it up a bit to match the rest of the inside bits. I removed the 5 screws that fix the metal top shell to the PCB's and gave it a light rub with some very fine wet and dry I masked the original 'A' 'B' and ' 1 2 3 4' stickers and applied 3 coats of Rust-oleum Surface Primer

4 slot as it arrived (the Japanese Kit Kat is green tea flavour)
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4 slot cover Primed
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Looking pretty minty now
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I removed the marquee which is attached by 3, 6 pointed star security screws (mine only had 2). It was then quite tricky to actually remove it as it was stuck down with double sided tape and super glue and I was concerned about damaging the paint, thankfully it came off fine albeit very slowly.

Marquee area, before I started work.
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Marquee when removed (front part)
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Marquee when removed (middle & back parts) YUK!
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I removed the hood which is attached by 11, 6 pointed star security screws to allow access to the speaker area and more space to work on the marquee part.

SNK SC19-4 without the blue hood / sun visor.
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I cleaned the black metal bit that houses the speakers and that the marquee sits against (sorry I don't know that actual name of the part), this took quite some time because it was caked in old tape and super glue that didn't want to shift, I ended up using lighter fluid to soften the adhesive. When I had removed all the gunk I used T-Cut and Turtle triple wax and it came up a treat.

Marquee area before cleaning.
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Marquee are all polished up.
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I removed the bezel which is attached by 2, 6 pointed star security screws. I cleaned the reverse of the bezel which was filthy (you probably can't see the difference from the photographs but it was a vast improvement).

Bezel rear, dirty.
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Bezel rear, all clean, the marks are where it's not perfectly dry. The credit PCB is a bit discoloured but spotlessly clean.
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I cleaned the front of the bezel using a super market own brand car bumper and trim restorer and it's come up brilliantly, really, really shiny. I know it's only a 2 minute job but it's really lifted that area of the cab.

Bezel front, before buffing.
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Bezel front, after buffing.
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I removed the 3 push buttons (screw type) and the 2 security bolts that hold the credit pcb in place, I cleaned the credit pcb and polished up the P1, P2 credit display strip with Novus 1, 2, 3, it's come up really nice but it took a hell of a lot of elbow grease. I also replaced the P1, P2 and select buttons with Seimitsu PS-14DN push buttons from http://www.gremlinsolutions.co.uk I also polished up the two security bolts with Stellar Stainless Steel Cleaner, Shiny which worked a treat.

P1, P2 credit display strip, at this point it has just has a wipe with a damp cloth.
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P1, P2 credit display strip, after being polished up with Novus, the security bolts polished and with the new Seimitsu PS-14DN buttons installed.
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Old fag burnt button.
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Brand new Seimitsu PS-14DN buttons
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I prepared the cab ready for polishing the exterior by removing the control panel, there is a metal latch inside the cab which you push to the left to release the CP. I released both of the side edge protectors by removing 2 bolts on each side. I removed the lower control panel which is attached to the cabs body by 6 screws.

Control panel in situ.
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Control panel when the top part has been removed.
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I T-Cut & Turtle triple waxed the white metal shell which took about 4 hours. It's difficult to see the difference due to my bad photography but in the flesh the difference in the colour 'before' and 'after' is really quite staggering. Almost every mark and scuff has either been removed of has been vastly improved. As you can see there is just one small area of the lower LHS of the cab that was scraped back to the bear metal and a line where the control panel sits, this was again scraped back to the bear metal. This part will not be visible as it is hidden by the control panel. I assume this has been caused by the control panel being loose and dirt getting being it then when it has been used the control panel has rubbed against the shell and all the dirt has acted as an abrasive.

SNK SC19-4 before cleaning.
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SNK SC19-4 cleaning close up. Unfortunately this is not the best picture but you can clearly see difference between the RHS which is cleaned and the LHS which is still dirty.
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SNK SC19-4 Front all shiny.
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SNK SC19-4 LHS all shiny.
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SNK SC19-4 RHS all shiny.
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I polished up the rest of the security bolts and washers which are now super shiny. I used Stellar Stainless Steel Cleaner Shiny, which is really good stuff.

Security bolts and washers, before cleaning which are all pitted with rust.
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Security bolts and washers, all polished, look at them shine
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I restored the side art. Overall the art on the RHS side was very good, just a couple of little scratches and one fairly large scrape a couple of inches in length. It was covered in a thin clear film which was pretty bad, it was scratched off in a few areas and peeling in another area. The LHS was much worse. I carefully peeled off the film and removed the residue using white spirit to soften the adhesive, then carefully ran a credit card at an angle along the length to remove the junk then cleaned it all with soapy water. I touched up the damaged areas with Rust-oleum painters touch Cherry Red and Plasti-kote gloss black fast drying enamel.

LHS art before restoration.
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LHS art before restoration (Close up)
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LHS art after restoration.
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LHS art after restoration (Close up)
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RHS art before the restoration (Close up)
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RHS art, part way through removing the film, looks scary but have faith.
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RHS art, film removed and already a big improvement.
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RHS art restored, the red has only just been applied so it stands out quite a bit but it should be much better when dried (it dries a slightly light shade) and when I've buffed it out.
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I have some self adhesive clear film (the stuff you used to back school books with) which I will cut to size and apply when the paint has hardened.

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I completely dismantled the upper part of the control panel by removing all of the crimps that were attached to all 8 of the push buttons, I then popped out all 8 of the push buttons, removed both joystick ball tops (put a flat head screwdriver in the screw under the shaft and unscrew the ball top) and removed all 6 bolts, the overlay was then free. I removed the long catch which was held on by 3 screws.

Control panel when removed from the cab.
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Control panel when dismantled (you can see the part which has broken of the lower metal base)
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The filthy mismatching buttons and sticks.
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I prepared the control panel ready for repair and re-painting by removing all the paint with wet and dry, this took a while but it was time well spent, when painting it's all about the preparation, if you rush this part then you will never achieve a really nice finish.

Control panel top untouched
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Control panel top stripped
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Control Panel bottom untouched
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Control panel base stripped and repaired (see below for details of the repair)
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I have fixed the control panel base. I used Ever Build Stick 2 Rapid Epoxy adhesive to fix a small triangular right angled metal bracket to the inside of the control panel support base and also to attach the broken rear piece to the bracket. When cured it is a good bond but for added strength I drilled two small holes to the rear and used small bolts to attach the broken part to the bracket I am able to use the original holes and bolts used for the side protectors to secure the other side to the bracket.

Control panel base broken
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Control panel base (rear) repair
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Control panel base (inner) repair
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I gave four coats of Rustoleum primer, to the metal control panel parts and finished off with a light rub with some very fine wet and dry, this gives an excellent base coat for spaying.

Control Panel base primed
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Control panel upper primed
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I gave the control panel 3 coats of Rust-oleum painters touch Cherry Red spray paint and it's looking pretty minty :) It's been quite slow going as I like to leave plenty of time between coats. BTW these photos were taken before I resprayed the inner areas.

Control panel base resprayed with 3 coats of Rust-oleum painters touch Cherry Red spray paint
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Control panel upper resprayed with 3 coats of Rust-oleum painters touch Cherry Red spray paint
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Last edited by Paulie on Fri Jan 13, 2012 4:04 pm, edited 1 time in total.
My trade/sale thread (Includes my feedback)

http://www.retrogamer.net/forum/viewtop ... =6&t=23510

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Paulie
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Re: Candy Cab SNK SC19-4 restoration - A work in progress

Post by Paulie » Fri Jan 13, 2012 3:52 pm

Heres whats left to do

Repair the broken red plastic side support
Repair the cracks in the hood and polish it
Respray the black base
Find somewhere to get the reproduction marquee art (that Rossyra did for me) printed

These are the bits I can get on with when the CPO arrives
Apply the CP overlay (when it finally arrives)
Fit the new buttons, sticks & replace the ball tops
Play some MVS on it

and Finally these bits
Get a reproduction marquee made
Get a reproduction plexi glass screen protector made
Hopfully Franco can help me out with these when he re-starts production
My trade/sale thread (Includes my feedback)

http://www.retrogamer.net/forum/viewtop ... =6&t=23510

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nokgod
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Re: Candy Cab SNK SC19-4 restoration - A work in progress

Post by nokgod » Fri Jan 13, 2012 4:24 pm

I bought some Novus a week or two ago mate....it IS good stuff. I cleaned up an old MD2 that's been lying about in my garage for an age. End results are fabulous, looks like new! Thanks for the tip on that stuff. :D
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K1NGARTH3R
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Re: Candy Cab SNK SC19-4 restoration - A work in progress

Post by K1NGARTH3R » Sat Jan 14, 2012 3:01 am

Great progress there Paulie... Also some great tips on what products to use

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mainvein
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Re: Candy Cab SNK SC19-4 restoration - A work in progress

Post by mainvein » Sat Jan 14, 2012 9:05 am

looking good mate :D will have to give you a game on it :wink:
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Paulie
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Re: Candy Cab SNK SC19-4 restoration - A work in progress

Post by Paulie » Sat Jan 14, 2012 1:51 pm

K1NGARTH3R wrote:Great progress there Paulie... Also some great tips on what products to use
Cheers mate :D
mainvein wrote:looking good mate :D will have to give you a game on it :wink:
Deffo 8) yr welcome anytime mate :D well as soon as I get the CP back together otherwise it will be a bit dull :lol:

To cut a long story short I had a control pannel overlay printed in the US (couldn't find anyone in the UK) but it was not prited to the size I wanted so didn't fit when it arrived :cry: looks lovely but of no use for this cab, the bloke said he would print another for me but it's yet to arrive (TBH I'm starting to get a bit worried as it's been a while and it was'nt cheap) so the CP is still in bits till I can apply the new overlay. The wait is killing me :(
My trade/sale thread (Includes my feedback)

http://www.retrogamer.net/forum/viewtop ... =6&t=23510

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Paulie
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Re: Candy Cab SNK SC19-4 restoration - A work in progress

Post by Paulie » Sun Mar 11, 2012 4:29 pm

I cleaned off the old CP overlay which was a bit of a shame as it was the original screen printed art. It was covered in an industrial type clear protective film which took ages to remove, how this ever got damaged in the first please is beyond me. Usually the hair-dryer will soften this kind of thing and make it really easy to remove but I tried that trick and it did absolutely nothing, so I ended up using course then medium and finally a fine grade of wet and dry which took a lot of elbow grease (well over an hour) but it did the job.

As it looked after I had stripped the control Panel
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Control panel metal plate after I had removed the original art
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Reproduction control panel overlay, Seb's checking that it cuts muster
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The new CP overlay was really easy to apply, first ensure the metal plate is perfectly smooth and is dust and grease free. I then cut the overlay to size, this one had a thin black outline so it was easy peasy (if you get one without and outline then as always with these things measure twice, cut once) I removed part of the overlays sticky backing film and stuck that part of the overlay down, I kept removing a little more backing and sticking a little more down using a smooth movement until it was fully applied. Take your time you need to get this right first time, you don't want air bubbles or it to be wonky or be upside down. Then the final job was to cut out the button and bolt holes, I cut them out roughly but close to size then I smoothly followed the metal holes with a blade (overlay face side up), the last thing you want is to snag the overlay at the final hurdle so if you cut like this you can see (and feel) if it may snag. My tips are to take your time, don't cheap out on poor quality blades cut and apply the overlay in a smooth motion and of course make sure you are applying the art the right way up.

Control panel metal plate with the new overlay applied
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The control panel overlay was printed by http://www.gameongraffix.com (a US company). I must say the quality is very high, and it feels very durable. There was a sizing hiccup with the first one that I received but Scott sorted that out for me for free and turned the order around very quickly. I managed to fit 2 overlays on 1 sheet (as the SC19-4 control panel is teeny weeny) so I have a spare one. It cost $32.95 USD and about the same again for shipping to the UK.

I bought new Seimitsu PS-14-G push buttons and Seimitsu LB-35 ball tops (I still need to order 2 new shafts and another red ball top as I still haven't decided if I will go with red and blue or 2 red ball tops) from http://www.gremlinsolutions.co.uk it's really simple to fit the buttons just push them through the holes and make sure the two tabs snap into place. Just make sure you fit the correct colour buttons in the holes. When I got the cab the A,B,C,D button colour placement was incorrect, but when I fitted the new button I rectified this as it should of course be A red, B yellow, C green, D blue. Fitting the joystick is simply the reverse of removing them. I took lots of pictures so I knew what wires went where if you don't do this you may have a fair bit of trial and error when wiring up the buttons and sticks.

New Seimitsu PS-14-G push buttons and LB-35 ball tops
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I bought a LS32 refresh kit from Kernow, thanks mate. It's a simple swap job. First remove the circlip, just rip it off as there are new ones in the kit. remove the plastic parts the spring and the shaft give the internal part of the joystick a good clean then pop the new parts in then fix it all in place with the new circlip. The last part can be a bit of a pig so don't do what I did, make your life easy and just buy yourself a pair of circlip pliers. I looked through my tool box for nano second and couldn't see my circlip pliers, so I got my dad head on and thought sod this, grabbed the first pair of pliers I saw and wasted over an hour effin and jeffin whilst forcing the new circlips on and making my thumbs really sore in the process. I put the pliers back only to see the naughty little circlip pliers staring me in the face

LS32 refresh kit
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To replace this
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CP all re-sprayed with the new overlay applied and the new Seimitsu buttons and ball tops
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Good to go (since this photo was taken I have now swapped the blue call top for a red one)
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The left hand side plastic CP side protector/ cover was broken

Broken LHS CP side protector/ cover
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I must confess I had a bit of head scratching over this problem and I had some good advice on what I could use (milliput) but I ended up doing the following. I used sticky tape to follow the shape of the plastic, this in effect provided a mould. It's actually really good for this job as I could easily get all the lines and curves I needed. Just make sure you don't pull it too tight otherwise it puckers and would leave a rippled surface. I mixed Ever Build Stick 2 Rapid Epoxy adhesive then tinted it with Rust-oleum painters touch Cherry Red spray paint and give it a good mix. I left it until it started to cure then I used this mixture to fill the area that was missing. It only takes about 10 minutes to go off, then removed the tape and wiped the residue off with lighter fluid. I trimmed the excess epoxy back with a good blade and used some very fine wet and dry to finish off the base. I then gave it a wipe with Novus 1. I'm really pleased with the results.

Repaired LHS CP side protector/ cover
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I knew buying an original marquee would be a long shot so I was forced down the reproduction route.

This is the marquee that my cab originally came with
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I chatted with Franco who was really helpful but unfortunately he wasn't able to make one for me but he gave me some advise on where to go to get one fabricated, sadly when I started to investigate these avenues the costs involved made me think I should knock one up myself so that's what I did.

I have the art thanks to Rossyra who was kind enough to knock it up for me and Jase was a star as he provided me with all the marquee measurements. So I must say a big thanks for helping me out, without those two the marquee would have pretty much been a non starter.

For the marquee art I was trying to find somewhere that did window stickers as that would have been prefect, but nowhere seemed to want to print my size or print a one off for a reasonable price. In the end I got 2 printed on an A2 sheet (sticker) from http://www.geniedesignandprint.co.uk for £19.00 + VAT. They were very fast and professional and it looks good, it only took a few days to arrive too. The inner corners of the original mini marquee space are curved but I will cut them out curved as fortunately there is a couple of mm to play with on the insides of each mini marquee space.

Reproduction marquee art
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I went to my local car boot sale today as I know there's usually a bloke there who sells off cuts of timber and perspex. Sure enough he had a few bits of perspex, I was looking for a couple of bits, 1 piece of 2/3mm in thickness and a piece of 1mm in thickness. The seller only had one piece of 3mm (everything else he had was way too thick) which I bought for the princely sum of £2.

Here's what my £2 got me
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I used the marquee art as a template for all my measurements and used black pen to mark the protective film of the perspex.

Marquee marked up
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I put masking tape on all the areas that I was cutting and drilling as this can help when cutting/drilling as perspex can chip/ crack quite easily. I cut it out very carefully using a jigsaw staying a fraction to the outside of my line. I marked the areas to be drilled and used a bradel (you can use a the point of a screw or something similar) to key the surface of the perspex, that way when I start drilling the bit isn't going to wander across the shiny surface and ruin it. I drilled the holes using a slow speed again to minimise the possibility of cracking.

Marquee cut out
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Does it fit? of course it does, remember measure twice cut once
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I used a sanding black and a very fine grade of wet and dry to remove the saw marks and to get it to the perfect size (that's why I cut to the outside of my line so I would have a tiny amount to play with when refining it) it's pretty soft stuff so it's not a difficult job but it clogs up the grit a little so keep an eye on that and ensure you you don't over work any section otherwise your edges will not run true and you will have to scrap it and start again.

After all of the edges had been sanded
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I polished up the edges with Novus 2 then with Novus 1 (remember to use separate cloths when using different grades of Novus)

After all the edges have been polished and the protective film has been removed sat on top of my reproduction art.
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My trade/sale thread (Includes my feedback)

http://www.retrogamer.net/forum/viewtop ... =6&t=23510

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